tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-80979513115297170252024-03-19T05:12:41.857-07:00The Ultimate Optima MidThe Optima Mid was designed in 1987 and released to the public in 1988. It was kyoshos Top 4WD buggy in 1988 - 1989, and replaced by the Lazer ZX in 1990. This blog is created by me to let all other Optima Mid owners know what modifications i did to the car to improve its performance, or just to substitute parts to get it runnable.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.comBlogger28125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-11173036535519075992015-01-20T21:26:00.001-08:002015-01-21T21:53:47.508-08:00Ball Diff vs Gear DiffI noticed that my Mid does not work well with gear diffs on loose sandy low traction surfaces , which cause the car to spin out on power while cornering.<br />
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On muddy surfaces or grass, the gear diff works great. So I decided to switch back to ball diffs, for this coming 8th Feb 2015 race. One of the problems with the ball diffs is it gets gritty by 10 packs, and you have to open the gearboxes and rebuild the diffs. There are 2 main causes of the diff getting gritty so quickly, one is dirt getting in the drive line, and the other is, even if there is no dirt, ball diff greases break down ,turn black and form deposits. I recently bought a synthetic grease from ACE hardware ,called Super lube. I am now using this as my ball diff grease, and I will seal the driveline properly. In theory this grease will take much longer to degrade.<br />
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I opened my driveline yesterday and discovered sand in my gearboxes, and traced the entry points to the front belt cover edges. The front lower belt cover lifted from the chassis, and the one under the upper deck has also formed a gap. since the rest of the belt covers form a rather tight seal, when the belt moves, it forms a vacuum of sorts that sucks the sand inside.<br />
I am now rebuilding the LWB with synthetic grease in the ball diffs and will reseal the driveline, hopefully I will succeed ,and get back the awesome handling as seen in the video of the last post. I want to get my LWB working to a level that it can challenge the Durangos and ZX6s.<br />
Last night, on the 21st Of January, I rebuilt my LWB driveline, and I find the diffs to be smoother compared to before, thanks to the SUPER LUBE grease.<br />
I set my front diff noticeably tighter than the rear, with the rear slipping a bit. I did this to make the car stable on acceleration and braking. This will make the car understeer a little, a car that understeers a little is easy to drive under pressure. Right now I use 10 Degree ZX5 caster blocks, and find steering to be a lacking at the very tight turns, may go back to 7 degrees depens on this weekend's testing.<br />
Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-64009279658767791542014-11-09T21:20:00.003-08:002014-11-09T21:20:49.439-08:0011-Nov-2014, all paid off !The car was incredible with the 7 degree caster blocks. I was finally able to drive it really well and keep with modern cars. The tail wasn't swinging anymore.<br />
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Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-71774425629251701852014-11-07T20:21:00.001-08:002014-11-07T20:31:49.443-08:00Adding caster to frontI have changed back to ball diffs, because the geardiffs don't seem so smooth. Since I did not have enough parts to rebuild a rear ball diff, I made some improvements to the standard kyosho rear ball diff.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I got a 8x16x5 bearing, and got my machine shop to make a 16mm sleeve with 19.8mm outer diameter.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The bearing slides into the geardiff casing<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This ball diff is now very smooth.</td></tr>
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I also used Lazer ZX-5 7 degree c hubs with 3racing ver2 ZX-5 alloy knuckles. I had to grind the c hubs in the fronts to make sure it will fit into the arms without binding. I am in the process of making a ZX arm that will be a direct fit with ZX-5 c hubs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">7 degree caster blocks with 3 degrees in the arm mounts equal 10 degrees total. this should improve handling. However I find that steering throw is also reduced.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembled parts. The front CVD is 3racings 65.5mm and upper turnbuckle is now 50mm.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grind the c hub below the angle mark. With my new arms which will be ready next week, no modifications will be needed.<br />
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Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-68335364224039067072014-09-16T17:34:00.003-07:002014-09-16T17:34:58.466-07:00Turbo Optima Mid SE SWB test run for racing<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-61781440629091773482014-09-15T21:37:00.003-07:002014-09-15T21:40:02.926-07:00Bashing on the Beach<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-69002732823821986642014-09-03T17:49:00.002-07:002014-09-03T17:49:41.364-07:00Ready for racing - 2014<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">After cleaning up. Some sand went in the front gearbox and made its way to the back. I changed new gearbox so that it will hold better on the chassis.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Serviced LWB next to my SWB</td></tr>
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<br />Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-77656272536747968232014-08-25T22:49:00.000-07:002014-08-25T22:49:19.121-07:00Built a SWB Optima Mid - finally !This was my brother's old Turbo Optima Mid, that was in pieces.<br />
I have a LWB ,but I missed driving a SWB, so I decided to rebuild one with some upgrades.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My Own Made associated B4 slipper compatible layshaft. More is available for sale.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The loose parts layed out</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBlbsYox8aFVG-vhkHfN1vNN5EZiGIcPQ7FXBPz7QOyTSZb6yj2s6s6Zz13TUtRYv1Us40-i6blknZgNEh_YDYVzXO75q3GfbsgyGxNl_s6wzIPgW3WXq5oPwT4j7zIUYv6Ff0-V2XFA/s1600/20140329_135300.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKBlbsYox8aFVG-vhkHfN1vNN5EZiGIcPQ7FXBPz7QOyTSZb6yj2s6s6Zz13TUtRYv1Us40-i6blknZgNEh_YDYVzXO75q3GfbsgyGxNl_s6wzIPgW3WXq5oPwT4j7zIUYv6Ff0-V2XFA/s1600/20140329_135300.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The front & rear ball diffs and rear gearbox innards. Notice my own made hard PEEK gear. I have more for sale.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBKd-3dlPT9RAJKhyphenhyphen8UCveTmPG2TSeiMFVIuaTTvJ9dYUkgUW319Z5kTROACA0LhuOUPAIwyOeB0yFA-wwsQQXiQXVVdT9I79VCIRVIGO3mWJgb26-B-OZACYNBxhKIRoSsIzp9DgVRg/s1600/20140329_172005.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGBKd-3dlPT9RAJKhyphenhyphen8UCveTmPG2TSeiMFVIuaTTvJ9dYUkgUW319Z5kTROACA0LhuOUPAIwyOeB0yFA-wwsQQXiQXVVdT9I79VCIRVIGO3mWJgb26-B-OZACYNBxhKIRoSsIzp9DgVRg/s1600/20140329_172005.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Semi completed</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nX7BUCYetExmJi3YhFq_jJE_PYQ286rz1KLgtAgM_dKygUHqoLoHfaq2tHYttJ5cS_2EdW0rY4kk6qxcrFj-N8BBn-amGMVPniWnN2l3ZCz3RtFpr5XfKQCPGvO78K1jWhcTZj6bGcg/s1600/20140329_172012.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9nX7BUCYetExmJi3YhFq_jJE_PYQ286rz1KLgtAgM_dKygUHqoLoHfaq2tHYttJ5cS_2EdW0rY4kk6qxcrFj-N8BBn-amGMVPniWnN2l3ZCz3RtFpr5XfKQCPGvO78K1jWhcTZj6bGcg/s1600/20140329_172012.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assembled gearbox and slipper.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsakwj1uj5CUck8RRTMRJD-RB-umUnAggDtBbblRCQbOW-8Cr9dk_S7Iv7lkF0jmGoWa44kYA2z8S2BQgPfoWCP-U7FmzuOYaSiahMXTRjrLMoqN7v86QNObzve37gPXLlHwmW_xSujc/s1600/20140329_172016.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZsakwj1uj5CUck8RRTMRJD-RB-umUnAggDtBbblRCQbOW-8Cr9dk_S7Iv7lkF0jmGoWa44kYA2z8S2BQgPfoWCP-U7FmzuOYaSiahMXTRjrLMoqN7v86QNObzve37gPXLlHwmW_xSujc/s1600/20140329_172016.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iG39Y6ijoBIkZThx96Ned9ZdOXI0SrWsckf5YvgHziOcHVw5SABCSWMnHkI2UW5vJxJYoSU_wuPY62U-m9M499GVhWF0_nft6jEkSszZc8T8gMwNrzTCRIkxBii6X2bPcUfAme7S3PQ/s1600/20140401_071008.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1iG39Y6ijoBIkZThx96Ned9ZdOXI0SrWsckf5YvgHziOcHVw5SABCSWMnHkI2UW5vJxJYoSU_wuPY62U-m9M499GVhWF0_nft6jEkSszZc8T8gMwNrzTCRIkxBii6X2bPcUfAme7S3PQ/s1600/20140401_071008.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With 2.2" wheels</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidR0oyuue3OIzW0xOh_0cOZBu3pzi3_pysvMoiN6V5I6CrhJqAK1dQ6K7WhQb7ZsCu53GlgRo6Y-pk5ezzIV1Q04GjneoeIFOWQYP1ho9P2C84qV8vYQO_J2HIzhCczjdjNekF9A2oTek/s1600/20140401_071020.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEidR0oyuue3OIzW0xOh_0cOZBu3pzi3_pysvMoiN6V5I6CrhJqAK1dQ6K7WhQb7ZsCu53GlgRo6Y-pk5ezzIV1Q04GjneoeIFOWQYP1ho9P2C84qV8vYQO_J2HIzhCczjdjNekF9A2oTek/s1600/20140401_071020.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kyosho GP10 strong steering parts.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWUi5oakz7SO5oMT5nBxHwgu28mK6u0oApYIV-Df2-7DHZIW0ODcPqtOur-zsMeNBnInYyGPtvkrT3refWhxRsyqU0MTGGGXOIkSLSIRx9HkL9BDNDNT90Sefg6mgNQv4jScAvBvUSYc/s1600/20140401_071030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYWUi5oakz7SO5oMT5nBxHwgu28mK6u0oApYIV-Df2-7DHZIW0ODcPqtOur-zsMeNBnInYyGPtvkrT3refWhxRsyqU0MTGGGXOIkSLSIRx9HkL9BDNDNT90Sefg6mgNQv4jScAvBvUSYc/s1600/20140401_071030.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Incomplete rear end</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgOv0ijyS_uuG_qZ0RqoQ28bhCIlA8pdd4dowOLsH2Zy6h_7aGhoHZzHqJdiGCW9pLe6xIR0wIxfN0pIppUsAJFwYwVfAZLLnRgkSDjN5syueOWbhAlwYg9z3T6A1dyVbeDUAgHfAbZo/s1600/20140403_212708.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjAgOv0ijyS_uuG_qZ0RqoQ28bhCIlA8pdd4dowOLsH2Zy6h_7aGhoHZzHqJdiGCW9pLe6xIR0wIxfN0pIppUsAJFwYwVfAZLLnRgkSDjN5syueOWbhAlwYg9z3T6A1dyVbeDUAgHfAbZo/s1600/20140403_212708.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Grinded arms, flipped, to make sure CVDs exit straight</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje__5M_sRlQnORYiFs9TNSkdasqNn6wrAPKF1dZ-w87jXscX01WF9B6G9jEhoIQs-82k_dnlE6Z7ATDxoU6wb7fluuc5i18-xf488YzWzl3V288644dFIE22UqTVSBd-mvjBuJUtn7hHM/s1600/20140403_221853.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEje__5M_sRlQnORYiFs9TNSkdasqNn6wrAPKF1dZ-w87jXscX01WF9B6G9jEhoIQs-82k_dnlE6Z7ATDxoU6wb7fluuc5i18-xf488YzWzl3V288644dFIE22UqTVSBd-mvjBuJUtn7hHM/s1600/20140403_221853.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">semi complete</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEI7fGMXQ7DEn4864YN3QsPgjBVsBxl4mBeIFUAImG1psuVsoFozpuEgoyL8RFxGD2F6SG-bepCPpj7qVWoLVUGWKq5C358MSaD97-iHX3RbRN98v18ZixfKb1weqiRKTmaZ23-MuFug/s1600/20140822_220133.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjlEI7fGMXQ7DEn4864YN3QsPgjBVsBxl4mBeIFUAImG1psuVsoFozpuEgoyL8RFxGD2F6SG-bepCPpj7qVWoLVUGWKq5C358MSaD97-iHX3RbRN98v18ZixfKb1weqiRKTmaZ23-MuFug/s1600/20140822_220133.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Recently completed with Mid SE decals</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jKbV1FHt95s95oh4vsTGcwovulkjeVPiplm0J08CmhzBXIC2WPc4GBwg-4KnkgNvzsRn0FiDEpqim5q0CYko71jqr_hBRa8PRPfeRTuGnDyM7UmI3Cvp2RoudhFjfSRCy1vWJ-TH2aw/s1600/20140822_220141.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jKbV1FHt95s95oh4vsTGcwovulkjeVPiplm0J08CmhzBXIC2WPc4GBwg-4KnkgNvzsRn0FiDEpqim5q0CYko71jqr_hBRa8PRPfeRTuGnDyM7UmI3Cvp2RoudhFjfSRCy1vWJ-TH2aw/s1600/20140822_220141.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioq7tswf8DChdkN6uln7bLrXU2zH__RwATXi87WOUGNIqWKbIUMVUucDku3YE7N43PMLCE2BGcXK1GizmLieP2Ryr8C28QkGr3ci-aWm6JURl9m4N-M-onyVUQ3T3Ics_HsCvVqZirwf4/s1600/20140822_220236.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEioq7tswf8DChdkN6uln7bLrXU2zH__RwATXi87WOUGNIqWKbIUMVUucDku3YE7N43PMLCE2BGcXK1GizmLieP2Ryr8C28QkGr3ci-aWm6JURl9m4N-M-onyVUQ3T3Ics_HsCvVqZirwf4/s1600/20140822_220236.jpg" height="240" width="320" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrZf_AYY0og">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrZf_AYY0og</a></div>
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<span id="goog_992878399"></span><span id="goog_992878400">This is a video of this car running, hadn't had a chance to test it offroad yet.</span><br />
After the ball diffs get gritty I will install gear diffs to cut down maintenance.<br />
next build, my Old Lazer ZX !Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-16466984453236405912014-06-01T05:03:00.001-07:002014-06-01T18:01:54.825-07:00Raced my mid today<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
So finally there is a EP offroad race in MYMTRG track. Unfortunately there wasn't enough entrants so all the EP 1/10 rc vehicles had to be raced together. In the field were 2 Durango DEX 410s, 2 Losi 22s, and one 2WD SCT. On Saturday, the track was mildly muddy, so I decided to use OT-66 tyres. It wasn't a really good race as I did not have any practice these last two weeks. The car kept overturning easily in the ruts as it seemed like the spikes were digging in too much in the bumps. However I finished the race without damage to the car, except the gear cover. I managed 5 laps in 5.08 which netted me in 3rd place for the first heat. Suddenly my boss called me and ask me to haul my butt to work. So I had no choice but to leave the 2nd and 3rd heat. Sure enough some one else beat my time and I slid down to 5th.</div>
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On Sunday, I used Lazer ZX-R tyres, figuring that the track was still damp and the hard spikes will dig in well. In the first final I did not do so well, but better than Saturday. I still made 5 laps , and cut down my time to 5.02 which netted me a 3rd place behind a TLR22. Still not happy with the car overturning, I increased negative camber on all 4 wheels, I surmise this would help prevent the car from overturning in the ruts. I also tightened up the slipper clutch to gain more speed and changed my driving style to go easy on throttle coming out of the corners, then gradually increasing speed. It paid off in spades and I cut down my best lap time down by 6s. I also finished 6 laps this time. In the 3rd heat I manage to repeat my performance. 2 finals were tallied and I won 2nd place behind a DEX410 driven by a young guy name dragon. I was really happy with my Optima Mids performance , and the new arms and PEEK c hubs I made were really strong and did not fail even though I took some pretty nasty hits. The Optima Mid has gained the respect from the newer generation after this race. The young guys were surprised with its performance and silence. </div>
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<br />Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-91253966543176874482014-03-24T18:20:00.000-07:002014-03-24T18:20:29.012-07:00Gear Diffs Yet AgainMy rear ball diff failed on me last sunday while batting a Durango DEX410, embarrassingly. I really believed I could have at least kept up with the DEX410 if my diffs were working. I am now installing gear diffs in my MID. I used Xray TC 300,000 gear diff oil filled only half. I did this to make sure the diff wont unload too easily and also the pressure in the casing will not be too high and cause the oil to leak out. I tried this and the diff is quite hard but still movable. The silicone oil should ensure that the setting remains constant and wont loosen up. For the front gear diff I used RIDE TC putty, to make the front diff almost like a spool, just the way I like the car to handle, very stable.<br />
I will let you know how it goes. I hope the large bevel gear will not separate out from the shaft, or I would have to take the car apart yet again...Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-55938021903734902962014-02-05T16:49:00.001-08:002014-03-07T02:07:09.862-08:00Latest updates and changes-Back to Lazer ?I just recently got a new batch of layshafts , and I haven't been running my optima mid since last year, when I sold my layshaft to Daniel Rowlands. My car has been running for some time now with the optima mid suspension, with the back arms flipped so that I can place the shocks behind the wheel in order to clear the layshafts.<br />
Last night while I was looking my car over I noticed that the rear CVDs were exiting the diffs at an angle, it was swept forward. That means the wheelbase was also reduced about 5mm. There was also noticeably a huge amount of rear toe in, which isn't really a bad thing.<br />
However, the forward swept CVDs could pose a problem.<br />
Forward swept CVDs will pull the rear suspension down under acceleration, and rearward swept will push the rear up, both conditions are not good for optimum handling. I did find my rear end washing out every now then. I then tried placing back the Lazer rear arms, and sure enough, they exited straight as an arrow. If you remember , I had problems with snapping my Lazer front C hubs, so in order for me to use back the Lazer arms, I had to find stronger alloy c hubs. An idea just came to me, why not find drift car alloy c hubs, since touring and drift cars uses smaller components similar to the lazer and optima, I am bound to be able to find one that fits, then I would have to use the knuckles that fits that c hub.<br />
The MPP arms seem to be tougher than Kyosho arms, simply because MPP arms are more flexible. I don't know how that will affect handling, but for sure my car will be more trouble free. I have been hearing from other people in the know, like terry sc who swears the Lazers suspension is much better than the Optimas on rough tracks, so that's one of the reasons I want to switch back.<br />
However, I did find a peculiar thing comparing lazer and optima arms. The shock mounting holes on the lazer arms are much further outwards. I believe they did this to get back the same wheel rate as the optima since Lazer arms are much longer and will give more leverage. Still I wonder if the wheel rate on the lazer arms is enough for rough tracks, as I believe the optimas shock positioning should give a softer suspension which will handle bouncing better. well, time for testing then.<br />
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Another thing I found out about kyosho big bores is the kyosho rod ends seem to be rather weak. I used X ray T2 touring car rod ends with their balls and they are much tougher, but they cannot go into the lazers capped arm because they are 5.5mm wide, compared to the kyoshos which are just 5mm. Anyway, I will try using back the kyosho pieces but this time I wont be removing them so often, and will put threadlock on them.<br />
I will keep you guys updated on my front c hub findings.<br />
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Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-31782454694090445492012-07-22T07:13:00.000-07:002012-07-22T07:13:45.146-07:00Back to the Optima (suspension)Ok, i love back to the future, since it was so 80's. So thats how i came up with this title. I was supposed to race my Mid in a race last week but i broke one lazer ZX front c hub while casing a big jump. I got so fed up and went back to the original Optima Mids suspension. One of the biggest reasons was i had a pair of A & L alumimiun C hubs with bearings and i think i could practically bulletproof the suspension with these c hubs. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5R2VNrPc2oHaGbWhKWRdufM5YAtOjU1oqpfGw0-aAexyE1-4YUKPPKR_qId6ay_c1goTdP8mW22NEQJYhlUziqf7TG6tXXjaViek6vPReuvxtO9uw3glwZjLMSVm5wU6pWwt3_G6j7og/s1600/PICT0577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5R2VNrPc2oHaGbWhKWRdufM5YAtOjU1oqpfGw0-aAexyE1-4YUKPPKR_qId6ay_c1goTdP8mW22NEQJYhlUziqf7TG6tXXjaViek6vPReuvxtO9uw3glwZjLMSVm5wU6pWwt3_G6j7og/s320/PICT0577.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The A & L C hub, with 4x8x9x3 flanged bearings.<br />
Thats a ZX-5 plastic knuckle. i ground off 2mm from the top of the knuckle to be 20mm then only it could enter the c hub. </td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">another view.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPVb2tr7QFS2HBlOiE1RrMiKVUa5Xp40msYBJe1Ynj__hXMmSUwy14daGhyouONU19C5k8oFybXaE2RKBlUpr9mOAGfSXN_8BKtfQuC4hwRhQpbGKJwKdNt7oeXzNbDKhwTjkdqnzIfH8/s1600/pict0580.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPVb2tr7QFS2HBlOiE1RrMiKVUa5Xp40msYBJe1Ynj__hXMmSUwy14daGhyouONU19C5k8oFybXaE2RKBlUpr9mOAGfSXN_8BKtfQuC4hwRhQpbGKJwKdNt7oeXzNbDKhwTjkdqnzIfH8/s320/pict0580.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rear Optim Mid Suspension with the arms flipped so that i can place the shocks at the rear like the lazer. Thi is done so that i can clear the new layshaft .</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitrBZsopDHPU6lvnziHc07mw-GcQCbUiYhkZQp3VWRO-mND-iZXxHuMx43A1I_K1ag_mQlfdPsCS_kf5whFBdZn7c2UF3QsYkQDdsqLgEfwz6AVLK4dQWm-2RdCUr_YudgQu8lEs0khVE/s1600/PICT0581.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" hda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitrBZsopDHPU6lvnziHc07mw-GcQCbUiYhkZQp3VWRO-mND-iZXxHuMx43A1I_K1ag_mQlfdPsCS_kf5whFBdZn7c2UF3QsYkQDdsqLgEfwz6AVLK4dQWm-2RdCUr_YudgQu8lEs0khVE/s320/PICT0581.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Position of shock on shock tower.</td></tr>
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I tried the car today on the terrible offroad track and it was much better than before, simply because i removed the durango shock boots that was interfering with smooth suspension movement. the Mid could clear the big jumps most of the time and landings were good. It also handled the bumpy sections rather well. Of course the tree roots still posed a problem, but the car was definitely better. Also since i was using modified kawada touring car knuckles, the mounting for the kingpins was too short causing the kingpins to dislodge itself and ending my testing. i went home and then decide to grind off the ZX-5 knuckle by 2mm at the tops so that i can slide it into the c hub.The zx-5 kunckles felt a lot more secure, and the kingpins felt secure in them too. i think i pretty much nailed this problem with this solution. will test again the next week.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-90227376514873590522012-05-01T07:20:00.000-07:002012-05-01T07:20:52.575-07:00Big Bores, Such a boar??I finally tested the big bores on my Optima, and at first i had 20wt oil in them , and they were too soft. it was bottoming out too easily. i took the advice of some drivers at the track, and put 50wt oil in the front, and 30wt in the rears. The car is now much easier to drive and i am finally clearing the jumps, small and big most of the time ! Before it was only some of the time. I also tried to place the front shocks to give it more ride height and droop, and i found that the car goes over the small bumps much better instead of nose diving, so it goes through the whoop de does much quicker. I also learnt a technique to clear the big jump, go up the hill quickly build momentum to the jump and at the end of the jump brake, the car will land nicely on the backside of the landing jump. However i still find the car under powered with a 10.5T, so the next step is to get a 9.5T or 8.5T. Also it seems my 5 year old Speed Passion GT1.1 ESC is finally giving way. after a few hard bumps, the calibration of the ESC went off. I had to recalibrate a few times. Now i have to buy a new BL sensored ESC and motor for my buggy, more expense needed, becuase of the coming race on the 25th. I managed to break a front right lazer arm and bend the RCPS titanium hingepin from hitting the backside of the jump squarely. So now i place ZX-5 arms and uprights on the front end of my Mid. I will also drill a few more holes on the rear of the James Instone shock towers to give the rear a little more ride height and droop becuase it seems to snag at the cement hill bank while going up, losing some speed build up for the big jump. will report back in 2 weeks. In the meantime i will be driving my Kawada SV-10 Alcyon II this weekend and giving my Optima Mid a rest. Dont worry it will come back with a vengeance !Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-15499771436010045022012-03-19T06:31:00.001-07:002012-03-19T22:31:04.082-07:00Some Old PicsHere are some old pics of my cars, many of them of the optima mid<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRWiccoDixxUItuNK38Zl_4au1O4dbKRGbE_oZMqGeME90E9vYNk2EGs7TWiQqdbRDrgmYA95RKvIEzFNlfVIDTZ1-Gcwk_O-1FJEU1wZbSABCHsCtXti2EPRH6zx0iY9NVvZLtCdkXA/s1600/Vintage15.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img aea="true" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSRWiccoDixxUItuNK38Zl_4au1O4dbKRGbE_oZMqGeME90E9vYNk2EGs7TWiQqdbRDrgmYA95RKvIEzFNlfVIDTZ1-Gcwk_O-1FJEU1wZbSABCHsCtXti2EPRH6zx0iY9NVvZLtCdkXA/s1600/Vintage15.jpg" /></a></div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-22185760232592188092012-03-03T22:41:00.002-08:002012-03-03T22:43:04.028-08:00New Videos Slipper Clutch and OT-66<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/XdUQhxZO0ig?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/IYu7hYSoF0c?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-7248558344573956642012-02-17T19:56:00.000-08:002012-02-20T05:39:34.485-08:00OT-66 has arrived, Marwans reprosI got My OT-66s and i cant wait to test how they work against new tech tyres.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBpmzT26NCsZ3Vz4XHRF33TkYZK8DZDSL_yWIbw9sMD7xwlHubbDx_wZMNEDxSYJulErocvRZwC46ldlIneB3w1ubG4om9L4-5gyTkdmnWfh00hRCVWKQ1lRInWcrXDrKyvXU_CBvUoA/s1600/PICT0458.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJBpmzT26NCsZ3Vz4XHRF33TkYZK8DZDSL_yWIbw9sMD7xwlHubbDx_wZMNEDxSYJulErocvRZwC46ldlIneB3w1ubG4om9L4-5gyTkdmnWfh00hRCVWKQ1lRInWcrXDrKyvXU_CBvUoA/s320/PICT0458.JPG" width="320" yda="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Optima Mid Custom Body with Original rims and OT-66 tyres</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1P3DgUqaAmHPcdmI_wMh-AfhNUDyiK9KGn97Xu3Rmi0_twwgpBzIAid2wYMG-sJBrzNKPJ_RRujtYQGQN5hfkFjmeEY_wkIZOrr2cJdD9EEIC1Zjfr3Qa25CRf_6wx0cyYREiasYNbp8/s1600/PICT0459.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1P3DgUqaAmHPcdmI_wMh-AfhNUDyiK9KGn97Xu3Rmi0_twwgpBzIAid2wYMG-sJBrzNKPJ_RRujtYQGQN5hfkFjmeEY_wkIZOrr2cJdD9EEIC1Zjfr3Qa25CRf_6wx0cyYREiasYNbp8/s320/PICT0459.JPG" width="320" yda="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Turbo Optima Mid Special Body with Original rims and OT-66 tyres</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Which one looks better? i alternate between both bodies since the undertray is the same.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I tested the tyres on a slightly damp and muddy track, and with some sections of grass, and i am glad to report that these tyres work better than modern proline M3s on that surface. This is becuase the M3s have short spikes, becuase of that, when the mud covers the tryes, there are no more spikes digging through the earth. Becuase of that the car understeers. The OT-66 on the other hand is of a harder compund and the spikes are long and far apart, so mud cant really obscure the spikes, so they dig right into the earth, giving your car more grip. not only that, becuase the fronts and the rears are wide, my car actually had more steering than with the modern tyres ! i will try these tyres in the next race in subang if the track is wet. Even if the track isnt wet i might use it for 1 heat just to try them out. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_DQGa_sUOeXEEwH5gt4IKMrFB8l-lOhOVu1rn0oUWATMWbn-hUTHfJI939ACxv9Odr924QpEINaj8ej4gHAZXrFGSwJJvHF06jx1KpyFYFH9p402dT-6YVWFnD5dto1R3xjZro-xpFM/s1600/optimamidcustom19feb2012-1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiQ_DQGa_sUOeXEEwH5gt4IKMrFB8l-lOhOVu1rn0oUWATMWbn-hUTHfJI939ACxv9Odr924QpEINaj8ej4gHAZXrFGSwJJvHF06jx1KpyFYFH9p402dT-6YVWFnD5dto1R3xjZro-xpFM/s1600/optimamidcustom19feb2012-1.jpg" yda="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div>With Optima Mid Custom Special Body, in the dirt !<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1OpA22mq9TXzpsRwdYVLhPe0Dxty7P-OHYUmRPPFB4skJoAnfOQPxQASJ218TWJNkWDR7fzpJwL9xoe7qbPXRM311lEQlnv0TNO-rBtom6S1cVii1SQplnxiK8aOsMEmHgpSSRkyZn8/s1600/optimamidcustom19feb2012-2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEja1OpA22mq9TXzpsRwdYVLhPe0Dxty7P-OHYUmRPPFB4skJoAnfOQPxQASJ218TWJNkWDR7fzpJwL9xoe7qbPXRM311lEQlnv0TNO-rBtom6S1cVii1SQplnxiK8aOsMEmHgpSSRkyZn8/s320/optimamidcustom19feb2012-2.jpg" width="320" yda="true" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Optima Mid Custom Special</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-16406448595030480002012-02-11T05:00:00.000-08:002012-02-17T19:51:42.071-08:00Broken Parts - Watch OutOver the course of the first post on this blog until now, i have damaged and broken numerous parts on the Optima Mid. I will let you know which parts broke or bent and how to remedy them.<br />
<br />
1. Graphite Chassis. Do not use this chassis if you intend to race hard, it will snap, look at this pic.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMBcUx0GT9K4_8qgyW2b1J5Wnc6cu077K3O1koyPbFY-JEjAvUELudRZ4WcqC_IxtwGogj33oPyGxezMUUHoijGIEDDurQ72uNIDRW7YSyU5z5Jdzw7XIdL9wc7JzZ8Su2AaoHPSS_ac/s1600/cracked+chassis.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWMBcUx0GT9K4_8qgyW2b1J5Wnc6cu077K3O1koyPbFY-JEjAvUELudRZ4WcqC_IxtwGogj33oPyGxezMUUHoijGIEDDurQ72uNIDRW7YSyU5z5Jdzw7XIdL9wc7JzZ8Su2AaoHPSS_ac/s320/cracked+chassis.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">All i did was jump high and land hard, and i did slammed into hard packed jumps many times too. Graphite will crack, take my advice, stick with the OT-122 Aluminium chassis. Its heavy but it will never snap.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">2. Stripped front gearbox threads. Fixing it is simple, see my previous entry about the bolt and nut method to secure the gearbox. Dont forget to seal the holes with silicon.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">3. Cracked rear gearbox at 2 wingmounts. After several months of tumbles and rear wheelies, the wingmounts still last, but it teared the rear gearbox wing mount, exposing the rear tranny to dirt, and i have to open everything again to clean them up. Since i am using lazer ZX-R shock towers, i will replace the wing mounts with ZX-R mounts part number UMW-1. I think i should rename my car Turbo Optima Mid Special ZX-R.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">4. Bent inner hingepins. Do yourself a favor, buy RCPS titanium hingepins ,and drill out the arms with the drill bit and instructions given. These hingepins wont bend.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">5. Cracked rear gearbox mounts</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv2GN6GTblZBmanSvz2ILUpB97l5-fW9s9SxIsUgUbRFUjpi3lbHTtkFMkm5Nm5uXnXVI8Oh6_xDOWWk3vuS2yZHQ0PlUBc_5evmxUUn2NZ4ywHv4YQHCqlWgGFYgmYVMdpoVqSyh9URk/s1600/PICT0456.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjv2GN6GTblZBmanSvz2ILUpB97l5-fW9s9SxIsUgUbRFUjpi3lbHTtkFMkm5Nm5uXnXVI8Oh6_xDOWWk3vuS2yZHQ0PlUBc_5evmxUUn2NZ4ywHv4YQHCqlWgGFYgmYVMdpoVqSyh9URk/s320/PICT0456.JPG" width="320" yda="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I tried a new way to hold the rear arms without using e clips on the inside, by using airplane wheel retainers in the arms and e clips on the rear. So what happened was i was at glenmarie track jumping the car hard and hitting track barriers, and then suddenly my rear arms look like they came off. To my horror i found the screws holding the rear arm brace is still intact, but the plastic thats its screwed into, detached itself from the gearbox!</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5B_7sp8b2_RWyiNztZP126xNGF5RsY31VOOO3BdZn50wGNRT0NwSUtf6uEbyp22oNa3zw5Mtmn33GWvtPNVQv3LQ27vdKCIqNzMR_qvoCP2lRt_BlLdwAmabtiNGhdLDrssDte9PxaBo/s1600/PICT0457.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg5B_7sp8b2_RWyiNztZP126xNGF5RsY31VOOO3BdZn50wGNRT0NwSUtf6uEbyp22oNa3zw5Mtmn33GWvtPNVQv3LQ27vdKCIqNzMR_qvoCP2lRt_BlLdwAmabtiNGhdLDrssDte9PxaBo/s320/PICT0457.JPG" width="320" yda="true" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The solution to prevent this is simple, place pack the eclips at the rear of the arm brace, that way the load on the arms will be shared by the inner arm brace and not all loaded on the outer arm brace.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-24567955200015778252012-02-02T06:25:00.000-08:002012-02-02T06:25:31.684-08:00My VideoThis is the link to my new video.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.youtube.com/embed/YdBUdcm15Xg?feature=player_embedded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Snapshots from my video</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuE9MbtsPo84vQ5H8kemS-4gPtqW7MY3j18jhiNSZAImSkVBTIawbqGCfNWmEzqP4ACC_9stdJAxagGnKpdVGeqi3L1BPg5Xmy_We1yOR4ryhkkqWhtuHs_GDJDMsf-_WOsy7LbzKbx6Y/s1600/snapshot.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiuE9MbtsPo84vQ5H8kemS-4gPtqW7MY3j18jhiNSZAImSkVBTIawbqGCfNWmEzqP4ACC_9stdJAxagGnKpdVGeqi3L1BPg5Xmy_We1yOR4ryhkkqWhtuHs_GDJDMsf-_WOsy7LbzKbx6Y/s320/snapshot.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfUniP50ZKw2pgJicmcVYSrLKI3Rg765P8FkBfXTXJEuDumpk2rvZLxlyS5XuXhhrX3OhI60jGWAozhvtfkf_BX_cx3VwPJj5zTPse4ZvMZpllixqBYjdl8K2JIJMenSdo0vH-baPx99Q/s1600/snapshot%25280%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="241" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfUniP50ZKw2pgJicmcVYSrLKI3Rg765P8FkBfXTXJEuDumpk2rvZLxlyS5XuXhhrX3OhI60jGWAozhvtfkf_BX_cx3VwPJj5zTPse4ZvMZpllixqBYjdl8K2JIJMenSdo0vH-baPx99Q/s320/snapshot%25280%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheu1VRxZRZk9FdTsQWfSQ0v5phFGVgRWRn3EnrK73TmQ8VWF6VRLcdblZUPZVtBZRDBIVuiQ2-GMS0s-SlbhFPyGHpiX9B5dfKqTFbhVKRpKI-2bM9vkC8G5FGWlXKI3h8AKuIsNJlkQI/s1600/snapshot%25281%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheu1VRxZRZk9FdTsQWfSQ0v5phFGVgRWRn3EnrK73TmQ8VWF6VRLcdblZUPZVtBZRDBIVuiQ2-GMS0s-SlbhFPyGHpiX9B5dfKqTFbhVKRpKI-2bM9vkC8G5FGWlXKI3h8AKuIsNJlkQI/s320/snapshot%25281%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf71efQg0akjTFLUUolfw1ANVk3_l6DMuLx7YiIKGB9qv4vj8xYBx_FoEYGg5j-qJ7PqHQcAIxrqfoBqbTsdjuvmv2oz8wGX6L5-FQ1AIGvdUCv8b6arZKfe7Ho-IZuerk4QEA0yF5FvQ/s1600/snapshot%25282%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjf71efQg0akjTFLUUolfw1ANVk3_l6DMuLx7YiIKGB9qv4vj8xYBx_FoEYGg5j-qJ7PqHQcAIxrqfoBqbTsdjuvmv2oz8wGX6L5-FQ1AIGvdUCv8b6arZKfe7Ho-IZuerk4QEA0yF5FvQ/s320/snapshot%25282%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDqmIb1naOwG5pRXtGkizv3TO7oIO2l4oFvwSPheBJ73Ws2W0DWHN2B6g2Sz-yT05EYrxkKAi43TTS1A6OLNXVzWcV3kKtat4RxlPhrShzULT9pZ16ZtPb_xCyYyPKTInEoVui6QUu5Ng/s1600/snapshot%25283%2529.bmp" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" sda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDqmIb1naOwG5pRXtGkizv3TO7oIO2l4oFvwSPheBJ73Ws2W0DWHN2B6g2Sz-yT05EYrxkKAi43TTS1A6OLNXVzWcV3kKtat4RxlPhrShzULT9pZ16ZtPb_xCyYyPKTInEoVui6QUu5Ng/s320/snapshot%25283%2529.bmp" width="320" /></a></div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-86220499207843881522012-01-27T06:16:00.000-08:002012-01-27T06:23:15.925-08:00List Of Hop Ups On My Optima MidSome of you might be wondering what are the parts i have changed on the car. Here i will tell you the part numbers and why i changed them.<br />
1. LA-26 Lazer ZX Suspension Arm set<br />
These arms are longer than the Mids, and needs less force to achieve same leverage, becuase of this they handle bumpy surfaces better and generate more grip.<br />
2. LA-59 Lazer ZX-R Front C hub <br />
3. LA-28 Lazer ZX Rear Hub<br />
4. ZXSJI 11 FibreLyte Lazer ZX Rear Shock Tower <br />
Strong graphite tower that allows more angle positioning choices<br />
5. KYZXR 04 Fibrelyte Lazer ZX-R Front Shock Tower<br />
Graphite shock tower in a closed loop with many many choices for upper shock position<br />
6. OT-16 Plastic Knuckles<br />
Holds the bearings tightly and wont develop slop like the magnesium hubs.<br />
7. #5028 A & L Steering Bellcrank with bearings.<br />
Good strong steering system without slop, but needs to be modified by user.<br />
8. LA-245 Lazer ZX-5 62.5mm CVD (all 4 wheels)<br />
Smoother power delivery and also easier to get than original UJ's.<br />
9. Latest Ultima Ball Cups and ball studs<br />
To replace all the worn out ball links<br />
10. Associated B4 slipper clutch and spur gear with custom machined top shaft<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6643XyYj62DPyW9_kFw-tIp6oIM4-u2s4HP2TLR4sVUN8sDdp5QSy2_StHowHNqNeaa03JGdzBFZ4YrJismuiUGIC2Y-G7ak931hcBnV_BVjJJyMyCiULdy-v_icL6VlfqJ64Ue4qw7k/s1600/optimamidslipper2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi6643XyYj62DPyW9_kFw-tIp6oIM4-u2s4HP2TLR4sVUN8sDdp5QSy2_StHowHNqNeaa03JGdzBFZ4YrJismuiUGIC2Y-G7ak931hcBnV_BVjJJyMyCiULdy-v_icL6VlfqJ64Ue4qw7k/s320/optimamidslipper2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Easier to get pinions and also to drive the car with a slipper<br />
11. OT-122 Aluminium LWB chassis<br />
The graphite chassis can actually break, hardened aluminium is heavier but wont break.<br />
12. Ball Diffs Front & Rear<br />
Works better than gear diffs will see differnce especially on landings.<br />
13. Yeah Racing Blue Aluminium hexes<br />
Looks cool, cheap price, and uses pin.<br />
14. Pargu2000's Aluminium center gear<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7hQ08gf6VVt_l2C_ws9bwV0detpIPtIU4O4LHQKYJIJ_yifke5KAtchvT4K2d0HZ8mWAaUc0ETigbSx3dBKyAxl2ItQ9qCkJuiP6TBOceDWlJne5f6-tfPrvZnyLmCJcdBIEGMB8wbg/s1600/OT-85+center+gear.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="238" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEga7hQ08gf6VVt_l2C_ws9bwV0detpIPtIU4O4LHQKYJIJ_yifke5KAtchvT4K2d0HZ8mWAaUc0ETigbSx3dBKyAxl2ItQ9qCkJuiP6TBOceDWlJne5f6-tfPrvZnyLmCJcdBIEGMB8wbg/s320/OT-85+center+gear.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>Add strength and lastability to the tranny<br />
15. A & L motor plate<br />
Dissipates heat better than stock motor plate<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3UOy1i3xZkj0gvg-wUFSVCe8yqS_FbiKiMX_ADu0tDBB3TfkE_Ee5k2WODIsDH4uDBoLTQFAIaX3bhCJ1No3Vs_eiLTxUmjHhxz1fPdAU1IUll1_HEnFN6unUt0fyKbiXLB2UIJoPik/s1600/pict0045.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" gda="true" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgN3UOy1i3xZkj0gvg-wUFSVCe8yqS_FbiKiMX_ADu0tDBB3TfkE_Ee5k2WODIsDH4uDBoLTQFAIaX3bhCJ1No3Vs_eiLTxUmjHhxz1fPdAU1IUll1_HEnFN6unUt0fyKbiXLB2UIJoPik/s320/pict0045.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>16. Coming Soon..Modern Kyosho Big Bore Shocks & Springs !Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-14630681884596016192012-01-24T06:43:00.000-08:002012-01-24T06:43:00.817-08:00Narrow Front End, it works !I spent a few hours setting up my front end to be narower. i tried the car today at the race track, and i am happy to report that the car has more steering now ! i went up againste a durango DEX410 which had a 7.5T motor, mine was a 10.5T, it was difficult to keep up with him, but at the corners, i was sometimes able to outcorner the durango, i literally was able to cut into his line at the corners! it was great. i also did not break anyhting on my MId, testament to kyosho old parts quality. I also tried the old mid special tyres, and they only work great in the extremely loose sand area, whern the spikes can really dig in. On the hard packed surfaces, the car was skating everywhere. i Swithced back to the Prolines M3 and i got a lot more traction on the hard packed surface, not to mention better bump absorption. The sealing i done on the gearbox and belt covers also paid off, my drive line is as smooth as the day i put it together.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-77133346967517408352012-01-21T20:19:00.000-08:002012-01-22T21:08:35.704-08:00Wheels to use on the Optima Mid and Lazer<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvpDRx1w8xS_1aLBXqG7OYXlbMjJclOr63Vs0BEM4LcJdE20VP8WklhMcITWOWQCHW6lkBWf2Dq7N73mwi_kx6rIZ9FsMK1Nd41SV-JC7D9xfoP9oUPmHcOfzLWov857uqVRPwzqbHMp0/s1600/optimamid21-01-12-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgvpDRx1w8xS_1aLBXqG7OYXlbMjJclOr63Vs0BEM4LcJdE20VP8WklhMcITWOWQCHW6lkBWf2Dq7N73mwi_kx6rIZ9FsMK1Nd41SV-JC7D9xfoP9oUPmHcOfzLWov857uqVRPwzqbHMp0/s320/optimamid21-01-12-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">I dont why, but ifeel the old tyres look better than the new ones, the old ones really look like buggy tyres, but the new prolines look like truck tyres.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>If you bought modern kyosho wheels like me becuase they were easily availabe at your hobby shop, you would have found a big problem that could affect handling.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mSb6Pddht2itvINtHcvVnOE3iva60i4XD3w01CGenLi2gR0qRK3S8opGzW6Unr49J2zvCLWhda2Pm8pC2rLg8rbf4hHM5i4g-CBSwy2460N-l39xWjBhh9UloMy9ZfMY_oSr8NqguiA/s1600/optimamid21-01-12-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-mSb6Pddht2itvINtHcvVnOE3iva60i4XD3w01CGenLi2gR0qRK3S8opGzW6Unr49J2zvCLWhda2Pm8pC2rLg8rbf4hHM5i4g-CBSwy2460N-l39xWjBhh9UloMy9ZfMY_oSr8NqguiA/s320/optimamid21-01-12-3.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The tyres above is the ZX-5 RTR (ZX-R) Rims and tyres, notic the front is wider than the reasr, thats the way ist supposed to be<br />
The tyres below is the modern ZX-5 SP/FS2 rims with proline tyres, notice the rear trackwidth is wider than the fronts! a big no no. since i already bought them i might as well use them first.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>The correct rims for your Optima Mid is W5026W front, and W5028W for rears. You can use any tires with them.<br />
Ok i ran the car about 2 hours ago at alocal abandoned MTB track. Met 3 guys with HSP (china brand) SC trucks. When the saw my optima mid in the sand over the bumps, their comments was, ..the suspension really soaks up the bumps ! They said my car handled really well, when theirs bounce like hell !<br />
The Mid jumped well and kicked a lot of sand, but i find the car understeered too much to my liking. Even though i slowed down for the turns, the car seems to push wide, only if the surface is sandy, when i gas it hard then rear will swing around and i have to countersteer to keep it in control. I did some reasearch on the internet about front and rear track width, and i found something odd. It seems having a rear track width wider than the front, you will get MORE steering, and front track width wider, less steering. The thing is my rears are now wider than my fronts, yet i still dont have enough steering ! I will still go ahead with the old ZX-R rims the next round , and keep the front hub on the outer hole. I will also try to put the front hub on the inner hole to reduce the front track width and see how it handles, if I do indeed get more steeering.<br />
<br />
NEWSFLASH, last night i took of the front LA-59 hubs and change the 3racing 65.5CVDs to Kyoshos LA245 62.5 CVDs. Placing the C hub using the outer hole reduces the front trackwidth, and also reduces the caster. These 2 changes alone should make my Optima Mid Steer better. The track width will increase grip, and the less caster will increase initial steering, something i am lacking right now. Becuase of that also i had to change the camber link location on the front, i had to use the outermost hole on the hub, so now my camber links are longer, this should give the front end more roll and more grip as well. This should work well on the optima mid becuase it is a rather rear heavy car unlik todays cars which only have small rear bias percentage. The Optima Mids rear is 200g heavier than the front ! The problem is my original Mid Rims cant fit in, unless i reduce some wahsers at the outer part of the upper link. Also another annoying problem is the new Kyosho front rims has lots of ribs in them, these ribs actually interfere with the outer hingepins! i Put in a 4mm washer in between the wheels and the hex and this spaces out the front wheel enough so that it wont touch the hingepins anymore, as a temporary solution. It seems kyosho is discontniuing the production of the ZX-R rims, so i will get them while stocks last.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-49122340870393737212012-01-21T19:21:00.000-08:002012-01-21T20:01:57.854-08:00How To seal the optima mid's drivetrain, and tips for easier maintenance<div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">As many of you all know, th Optima Mid is not an easy car to work on, and maintenance work can be very difficult and time consuming. During my cteenage years , i spent alot of time taking apart the car and cleaing the gearboxes and diffs, i always followed everything in the manual and only used the car with original parts cause i couldnt really think for myself. Fast forward 20 years later, being and engineer designing machines, and applying my knowledge and experiments on touring cars, i managed to find a lot of ways to improve and lengthen time for teardowns and rebuilds on the optima mid.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">I thought to myself, i must seal the gearbox properly and not allow any sand to get into the gearbox , and also must find someway that i dont neeed to take apart the diffs for maintenance.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">Firstly look at the 1st pic, its selleys silicone sealent. The stuff works wonders, when its in it freshest state, its kind of jelly paste like, when it dries up, it becomes like a flexible rubber like substance,that can be removed by hand later by pulling it out, very good for sealing your optima mid's belt covers.</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hIlviq-OO1lrWEX-KFsgRUEJNOluet2rlG_wDMRcJFS_6wfFYReYnKSR3HUhRc8DZ9oH2yIxzsHbBqb_FUhphMjgOvt25WLCx6g2LHpikxO5PlYs1aZxAhPzPdGzQUlK2NWO2zt4nZ4/s1600/Selleys+Silicon.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg4hIlviq-OO1lrWEX-KFsgRUEJNOluet2rlG_wDMRcJFS_6wfFYReYnKSR3HUhRc8DZ9oH2yIxzsHbBqb_FUhphMjgOvt25WLCx6g2LHpikxO5PlYs1aZxAhPzPdGzQUlK2NWO2zt4nZ4/s320/Selleys+Silicon.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Buy this tube of sealent at your local hardware store, it fills and seals the gaps in between your belt cover joint areas.<br />
To stick your beltcover on, use 3M high strength thin double sided tape.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi301HSKFvUj3_knBc6RHLDRX-XApRmz5G5Mp4ctjHmesjJLXlkmw1q9LFvEGuKNExf66IfTcpttNmobydAaX4m__9no8sBIaKJS42lOG468pYBCrXuLfjp0R7oL-sQc4BdkIRTTRJCKnc/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi301HSKFvUj3_knBc6RHLDRX-XApRmz5G5Mp4ctjHmesjJLXlkmw1q9LFvEGuKNExf66IfTcpttNmobydAaX4m__9no8sBIaKJS42lOG468pYBCrXuLfjp0R7oL-sQc4BdkIRTTRJCKnc/s320/optimamid20-01-12-5.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;">The optima mids gearbox is made of high grade plastic, but the front gearbox is especially prone to stripping its threads after so many times removing and retightening the screws, and also form hard collisions. An easy way to remedy this is to drill through the mountin holes at the bottom. But it will expose the gearbox innards to sand. Drilling through with a 2.5mm drill bit will allow you to use longer screws ,in this case i used a 20mm screw to hole the bumper in the 1st front 2 holes, since there are 2 holes esposing the gearbox internals, use the silicon sealent to seal them, like shown in the picture. That T sysmbol is team Tanaplan.</div><div class="separator" style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none; clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwXZ9Sa_Yf6tBip-cjMBOaU0AUkiC1yV4P5OnGT5VdG_cG5V9SCZigWUWR0PyC2I0bjjcRFjxlCHdUaDK4VWbTugcOhaMWXgzyhmm4nTCVKasfnfrwXfhHVykyh7ttAg_EaB3N6QMO9VA/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwXZ9Sa_Yf6tBip-cjMBOaU0AUkiC1yV4P5OnGT5VdG_cG5V9SCZigWUWR0PyC2I0bjjcRFjxlCHdUaDK4VWbTugcOhaMWXgzyhmm4nTCVKasfnfrwXfhHVykyh7ttAg_EaB3N6QMO9VA/s320/optimamid20-01-12-4.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the silicon paste in between the belt cover and the front gearbox, and also in between the bottom of the gearbox to the chassis, also at the suspension mounts. I drilled a hole through the last 2 holes holding the gearbox to the chassis, so that i can place a nut to securely hold down the gearbox. You have to use a 14mm screw so that it will go beyong the suspension mounts. Since the drilling exposes the innards of the gearbox, you have to use silicon sealent to cover the hole back after tightening your nut. Dont forget to use sealent on the under belt cover under the upper deck.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyOqqAtQuvzQtA7y3YmydMX6qcBh1eaym_rD2QwWCs4GGSy6Q3arwgJTcFNcqvnETwuXycze39ecAUxHRZeFShacgG63xoAI2zSOa4XIgnFrL_Hrtozro_eY1BcBARrLC_CecdyIiI6aY/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyOqqAtQuvzQtA7y3YmydMX6qcBh1eaym_rD2QwWCs4GGSy6Q3arwgJTcFNcqvnETwuXycze39ecAUxHRZeFShacgG63xoAI2zSOa4XIgnFrL_Hrtozro_eY1BcBARrLC_CecdyIiI6aY/s320/optimamid20-01-12-3.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">See the 3M tape used to mount the upper belt cover, and the silicon sealent along the front seam of the belt cover to gearbox and top deck.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCe2eBfJZBKjSKOPbjCq0QvQ7Z3L3AtSiO8uB2GgD5xxbTtXRYG5ou6j3w3-WbGrHZVnLwsd9WFGdeEyRmt7UsreWNzCrAhmOM1TYkQ6ReKDK5pDAGDsexQ3U25wd14TGf1vHP2eVN9os/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCe2eBfJZBKjSKOPbjCq0QvQ7Z3L3AtSiO8uB2GgD5xxbTtXRYG5ou6j3w3-WbGrHZVnLwsd9WFGdeEyRmt7UsreWNzCrAhmOM1TYkQ6ReKDK5pDAGDsexQ3U25wd14TGf1vHP2eVN9os/s320/optimamid20-01-12-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sealent and thick double sided tape replaces the OT-103 sponge here to really seal the rear gearbox upper area.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1xJhJmT37LpTd9Afm1FbOZrhDbjNBUUv2gooRwfetQw6g2XE7CBCxeOVPVFV9nIAcmFODcus0Ito-s3GQ4NHAsgNvLwHzirfYWAyhyphenhyphennVMO1gwMa6nkjRaajCAAJ9j6wyiI66ReFw-VQ/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiq1xJhJmT37LpTd9Afm1FbOZrhDbjNBUUv2gooRwfetQw6g2XE7CBCxeOVPVFV9nIAcmFODcus0Ito-s3GQ4NHAsgNvLwHzirfYWAyhyphenhyphennVMO1gwMa6nkjRaajCAAJ9j6wyiI66ReFw-VQ/s320/optimamid20-01-12-1.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Silicon sealent fills and closes the gap in between belt cover and rear lower gearbox.<br />
<br />
<br />
</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWu7LHISRMhk8y5rjP2n4YsC5p1yDCcR5bc0-Tt0KjTpj1p7E0o7YX3V3GQhYI8GjYtmVimCSQ6a66Ix0Ox5Bh8Oz0WgQGiggmtq63iY1g6vFVIuJkNImbz3_SACTxE7k3LHbzA6qSSQ/s1600/diff+covers.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgFWu7LHISRMhk8y5rjP2n4YsC5p1yDCcR5bc0-Tt0KjTpj1p7E0o7YX3V3GQhYI8GjYtmVimCSQ6a66Ix0Ox5Bh8Oz0WgQGiggmtq63iY1g6vFVIuJkNImbz3_SACTxE7k3LHbzA6qSSQ/s320/diff+covers.JPG" width="320" /></a><br />
Dirt can still get through one area , the diff side bearings, becuase ethere is asmall gap.</td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use dishwashing sponge, cut up a thin slice, then cut up a hole in the middle with a curved scissors, the hole should be slightly smaller than the ball diffs output shaft. Yes i am using ball diffs again. Use silicon sealent to glue the sponge to the gearbox sides.To cut down times in between rebuilds, i bought ACER racing 3mm ceramic balls for my diffs, and greased the balls adequately. With the ceramic balls, and the side sponge sealing, you should not need to open the gearbox for at least 3 Months ! You only have to clean the wheel bearings and shocks, you dont have to touch the center part of the car! amazing isnt it?</td></tr>
</tbody></table><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-YI2hy8CkVGc_2uXd1jQUzmkA650JLe_steE0qan80aSNTJlunljMB9IJzBgKOzvtGCyoMeRgpD3U7QcdWFKkkfUZ2Rocms16bOkllJRP0q7ckRCKAOHfEYr7pe79n0Y8a3A-PXymfg/s1600/optimamid20-01-12-6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" nfa="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhz-YI2hy8CkVGc_2uXd1jQUzmkA650JLe_steE0qan80aSNTJlunljMB9IJzBgKOzvtGCyoMeRgpD3U7QcdWFKkkfUZ2Rocms16bOkllJRP0q7ckRCKAOHfEYr7pe79n0Y8a3A-PXymfg/s320/optimamid20-01-12-6.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The thrust bearings get dirty easily and contributes to the diffs gritty feeling. You can remove the diff outdrive like shown here, wihtout removing the gearbox ! Just unscrew the diff as shown, and pull out the output shaft, the bearings and spacers diff rings inside the gearbox will stay put becuse of the way kyosho designs them. Remove the thrust bearings, clean them then relube them, then simply place back the diff output shaft into the gearbox, voila, your diff is smooth again. If after you clean the thrust bearings the diff is still gritty, then you will have to open the gearbox and clean the main diff balls.But that should be a long long time before you need to that if you follow my tips ! Dont forget to put a small slab of sponge to cover up the thrust bearings to better protect your thrust bearings.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-12657918815757389502011-12-30T04:05:00.000-08:002011-12-30T04:21:14.935-08:00My latest additions and worryI got myself a new wing for my Optima Mid, made by durango. Have look at it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANBak-av6XY/Tv2oz4N2uOI/AAAAAAAAALg/CijUrw5D9Sw/s1600/Optimamid29Dec2011-2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ANBak-av6XY/Tv2oz4N2uOI/AAAAAAAAALg/CijUrw5D9Sw/s320/Optimamid29Dec2011-2.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I finally used up the rest of the stickers that came with the Marwan Repro body kit.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uTXVWMIEEH8/Tv2qqQbkGJI/AAAAAAAAALs/NRdEdbZ-Ixk/s1600/Optimamid29Dec2011-3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-uTXVWMIEEH8/Tv2qqQbkGJI/AAAAAAAAALs/NRdEdbZ-Ixk/s320/Optimamid29Dec2011-3.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">i changed the rear springs to assocateds green springs, the softest, and the front to silvers, the second hardest. I also reduced the droop a little bit on the shocks. Waiting for the durango shock boots which i will buy from 1 Utama tommorow, then the car is ready to run again !</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Then the little debacle with dirt getting in the tranny got me worried. OT86 gear is still easy to get, and the center gear is made by pargu2000 out of aluminium, and its excellent. But no one makes the SG-25 plastic sprocket set, and its getting verh hard to get hold off these days, and also very expensive at $25. I saw a seller selling the ball diff casing for only $5.99 which is cheap, but i dont want to use ball diffs anymore. So who will make the SG-25s? My current sprocket gear is very new, and i only have one more new extra sprocket, then thats it. i think these could last me perhaps 3-5 years, if i dont let dirt get into the gears. But after that what then? I got an idea to make a single belt conversion for the Optima Mid, which you will be able to use any worn out sprocket gear, cause there will no contact with the gears anymore. Unfortunately my idea will require some cutting on the rear gearbox, a little drilling on the top deck, and total removal of the upper deck belt cover. The good news is i beleive the belt cover will not be needed there because there will no need to have any grease inside the tranny anmore becuase of the single belt drive. I will work on it once i run out of gears !</div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-7598653597357326962011-12-24T23:24:00.001-08:002011-12-30T03:59:51.963-08:00Optima Mid Slipper Clutch<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Firstly you might ask me, why do you need a slipper clutch on An Optima Mid? Doesnt it already run well? Well, i dont think the Stock Mid runs that well. On very rough tracks, the lack of a slipper places great strain on the tranny, and also makes the car very hard to drive. If the surface is too rough or rutty, the sudden jolt from the rut to the wheels , coupled with the power and torque still coming from the motor while your finger is on the throttle, will cause your car to bounce badly, and could even flip the car in another direction.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I decided i needed to do something. I did some research on Losi and Associated's slipper clutches, and i found some designs requires thrust bearings and some dont. I opted for the cheaper option, and chose Associated's B4 slipper clutch. I got one complete set from ebay for $20, comes with the top shaft which i need for measurements, the 2 slipper plates, slipper pads, spring, and the spur gear 81T.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">My plan was simple, design a shaft that on the inside, matched perfectly to the Optima Mids gearbox, able to place OT-86 gear on the shaft. On the outer part, it will match with the B4 slipper parts.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">Here is what i came up with.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q6XqhnRZn6I/TvbPD4ouIHI/AAAAAAAAAKk/usUBGioonno/s1600/PICT0449.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-q6XqhnRZn6I/TvbPD4ouIHI/AAAAAAAAAKk/usUBGioonno/s320/PICT0449.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The second protoype i got from my machinist. The first one was a failure.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bDoqAwJD1_E/Tv2kD3riz1I/AAAAAAAAAK8/HXUooPlV3UQ/s1600/optimamidslipper1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-bDoqAwJD1_E/Tv2kD3riz1I/AAAAAAAAAK8/HXUooPlV3UQ/s320/optimamidslipper1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">The gear cover on, with a hole made. I ran it this way for a pack. On the second pack, a bit of stone went in and chipped the spur gear. So i devised a round tube cover, see picture below.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P0vZjiVc7pg/Tv2kfR7uBmI/AAAAAAAAALI/XzMSLM7Ilv0/s1600/Optimamid+spur+gear+cover.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="316" rea="true" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-P0vZjiVc7pg/Tv2kfR7uBmI/AAAAAAAAALI/XzMSLM7Ilv0/s320/Optimamid+spur+gear+cover.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">This is a chinese medicine plastic tube, it was cheap, and the right size to contain the spring and the nut. I sawed the tube, then siliconed it on the gear cover. The removable cap allows me to adjust the slipper setting ! NEAT !</div><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I tested the car at titiwangsa track in Kuala Lumpur, and the car was much much MORE EASIER to drive. It felt like i was watching a Pro CAT in action. Yes it was that good. I gotta take video , if only someone could help me. The track is extermely rough, but for the first time ever, i could drive it around the track, without the car losing a lot of control. In fact it was the first time i could drive the car lap by lap by lap, until the battery dumped! I even took the huge jump, that launched the car 4ft high, over and over again, and landed hard ! On the second pack, the tranny was making some noise. So i stopped the car. It felt like the bearings were contaminated and some sand got into the tranny. So i went home and took the car apart, sure enough some sand did get in. So i did a total stripdown, relubed the bearings, put molybdenum grease on the gears, and put heavy lithium grease in the gear diffs. You might ask me why i am not using the ball diffs. Well, they require too much maintenance. The will foul up after 2 packs only. And with the slipper, the gear diff works well. I also sealed all the joining areas of the belt cover near the gearboxes, with flexible silicone.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">I also found that the gear diff outdrive bearings are placed a little bit nearer to each other causing a 0.5mm gap between the outer bearing and the gearbox. This is what allowed the sand to inside the gearbox.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">So i devised a simple way to keep sand out from this area. I cut thin sponge, and placed it at the diff outdrives, and tighthned the setscrew. Now my whole tranny is dirt proof.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z4PRtIhmiRg/Tv2nYTDcGNI/AAAAAAAAALU/duVTU9nMPyI/s1600/Optimamid29Dec2011-6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" rea="true" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-z4PRtIhmiRg/Tv2nYTDcGNI/AAAAAAAAALU/duVTU9nMPyI/s320/Optimamid29Dec2011-6.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
Next i am planning to buy durango shock dirt boots to place in my shocks to cut down on maintenance. Now the only part requiring maintenance on my car is the wheel bearings, but that is normal even for modern cars.</div>Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-25455561627270101302011-10-16T07:08:00.000-07:002011-10-16T07:08:55.579-07:00latest upgradesi have now gone back to Kyosho LA-26 arms, and i modified the A & L bellcranks after i found their shortcomings. the problems was the plastic 4-40 nuts were not strong enough to hold the screws. after a few hard knocks it worked loose. so i replaced the 4-40 screws and nuts with M3x25L bolts.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLYNHWATjCvNvVaX1DPXrwy8XZSOwpKToIcWWOoUxbj89loe8PK-1WILYDzxtx4xl69wAs9gsejFxz_FpUE2ReSyrzjM7vl9X1jUysr7dt5h7BQrZlP0BaTOxOehfh07vodFZqY27bVk/s1600/PICT0070.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCLYNHWATjCvNvVaX1DPXrwy8XZSOwpKToIcWWOoUxbj89loe8PK-1WILYDzxtx4xl69wAs9gsejFxz_FpUE2ReSyrzjM7vl9X1jUysr7dt5h7BQrZlP0BaTOxOehfh07vodFZqY27bVk/s320/PICT0070.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Notice the missing bearing on the left, lost it on a bad day, waiting for the replacement to come. notice i flipped the graphite bar upside down from the instructions, this allowed me to place the ballstuds facing up and higher, thus enabling the steering link to be parallel with the lower arm, eliminating bump steer.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpLBpc0PmLi-vLEbYxXAsiCHWk1jmI2r6omtcH6H8MUjL3HtvbTQ_svZdJ_E1xbt7UerKiRKsQpPsLhjAEP1Vbt_bClICP7kWDOyx-G0ntEuoGePvH2NAOMFDPQrGb75Fnx3t-eTdxMAc/s1600/PICT0071.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpLBpc0PmLi-vLEbYxXAsiCHWk1jmI2r6omtcH6H8MUjL3HtvbTQ_svZdJ_E1xbt7UerKiRKsQpPsLhjAEP1Vbt_bClICP7kWDOyx-G0ntEuoGePvH2NAOMFDPQrGb75Fnx3t-eTdxMAc/s320/PICT0071.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">notice the amount of wahser under the pivot post to raise up the ballstuds.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMZ2NZ6nnG1Au83cM5U8DJcyjNwcX7XxoCOKLPAvt8GjhJo7IfHGMsD4fz-OlbictKbA9n9mbsWjAFWoocJAsKQpBOOHJjUvHSfIs_LoOnQ614fl_5cfrFvQW9zYIhR8ftfiDMYmsXcQ/s1600/PICT0072.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCMZ2NZ6nnG1Au83cM5U8DJcyjNwcX7XxoCOKLPAvt8GjhJo7IfHGMsD4fz-OlbictKbA9n9mbsWjAFWoocJAsKQpBOOHJjUvHSfIs_LoOnQ614fl_5cfrFvQW9zYIhR8ftfiDMYmsXcQ/s320/PICT0072.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The steering link is parallel to the lower arm, so no bump steer here !</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1fNfcPC1YZ86HqAWC2GRsU_SKLwfQf5iEO-j0URMRY-VA0hsMoSfDQw72QwYcx_ZxStDYn4ouJe2XbeRGYtjndGlvT1enj04HeKLXdZ2k1E0OK6olPB08GIPddEkbl17BWPFGSdsqxDo/s1600/16-10-11+optima2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1fNfcPC1YZ86HqAWC2GRsU_SKLwfQf5iEO-j0URMRY-VA0hsMoSfDQw72QwYcx_ZxStDYn4ouJe2XbeRGYtjndGlvT1enj04HeKLXdZ2k1E0OK6olPB08GIPddEkbl17BWPFGSdsqxDo/s320/16-10-11+optima2.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View without body with modern electronics.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdEJrNQTsdneKhgr7lDpHqo0Do-LByrOj8WXWwvFISrUxgaOp6HXJ91UWoJpNNZ5RTB-LLCfIpFwrHhgEoA7Hlrnn-WSlsAm4k4W5dotcew5tbzTQUEb7VfhFFHVvxmql21_YQBtjN-A/s1600/16-10-11+optima3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhMdEJrNQTsdneKhgr7lDpHqo0Do-LByrOj8WXWwvFISrUxgaOp6HXJ91UWoJpNNZ5RTB-LLCfIpFwrHhgEoA7Hlrnn-WSlsAm4k4W5dotcew5tbzTQUEb7VfhFFHVvxmql21_YQBtjN-A/s320/16-10-11+optima3.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">With modern tyres</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpGvYGEMQ6RM1zBhBMMbJk-aw4mt8aCmw7kCTcnUkks0KBq8RekoIKzMbRkO3Gmw8M7oWu8JN1fdDlcBKOveMEh9pwYUAHIW7l0Hziu9JtKZXe6xHKi7C-3RnqE1MFZ4bosEKsCfC6Lg/s1600/16-10-11+optima4.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKpGvYGEMQ6RM1zBhBMMbJk-aw4mt8aCmw7kCTcnUkks0KBq8RekoIKzMbRkO3Gmw8M7oWu8JN1fdDlcBKOveMEh9pwYUAHIW7l0Hziu9JtKZXe6xHKi7C-3RnqE1MFZ4bosEKsCfC6Lg/s320/16-10-11+optima4.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fibrelyte James Instone Lazer ZX shock towers.</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ll01S1yvD_mDjHhz6BjdPVywAN5ISo-_W69fMEE0v7LHwBzIA1QS89z_6Yu_V8RZJTFD2YBpfN7jsn6WxxEGmenCIiNK-P4qfn97CePUyVJAmsycM63OR53jP9uJ17ESY34lWKlfTgE/s1600/16-10-11+optima7.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_Ll01S1yvD_mDjHhz6BjdPVywAN5ISo-_W69fMEE0v7LHwBzIA1QS89z_6Yu_V8RZJTFD2YBpfN7jsn6WxxEGmenCIiNK-P4qfn97CePUyVJAmsycM63OR53jP9uJ17ESY34lWKlfTgE/s320/16-10-11+optima7.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Fibrelyte James Instone Lazer ZX rear shock towers</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqbVI1Y23ee58wY5D9GL5ghc9yB5lr2DWKm6PMzE9U5jrfCQ8VSkzXuBZy2IS5eq45CQEaiy1l0zhLqWjhTkl99MANYuOgQhHl-qAGnJBO1lvZmSJzHDMfoXs3c7d1sscRZVoe8uewwc/s1600/16-10-11+optima5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYqbVI1Y23ee58wY5D9GL5ghc9yB5lr2DWKm6PMzE9U5jrfCQ8VSkzXuBZy2IS5eq45CQEaiy1l0zhLqWjhTkl99MANYuOgQhHl-qAGnJBO1lvZmSJzHDMfoXs3c7d1sscRZVoe8uewwc/s320/16-10-11+optima5.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Top view, notice the A&L sticker</td></tr>
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5khSz01qmCNAayASt_fj14NTDj9kwUjw3tdCC9h_eEEenehDifRj_BqlkkpzFiGlTQx6YUe9uZ6T71_aO5lDNBc0V0iqaf_YL-pKUJQZY1HnX_sR_uw0OhTv05B9f-xv0NPtMaYjRTM/s1600/16-10-11+optima6.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEih5khSz01qmCNAayASt_fj14NTDj9kwUjw3tdCC9h_eEEenehDifRj_BqlkkpzFiGlTQx6YUe9uZ6T71_aO5lDNBc0V0iqaf_YL-pKUJQZY1HnX_sR_uw0OhTv05B9f-xv0NPtMaYjRTM/s320/16-10-11+optima6.JPG" width="320px" /></a></div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQE-ESNWtC7UUtyI-ZQTIjbeHN1gz_ZLjgcJMD__FoRjVhEQw3PWc3pfV4dQFekfedkw6J9onXmJCEj5NGa66dFbHU6FwiTS15SjLgcQHSOvL2RmcvfznEfGNQzjN4AI1-fv9po5HOLMY/s1600/16-10-11+optima8.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240px" oda="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQE-ESNWtC7UUtyI-ZQTIjbeHN1gz_ZLjgcJMD__FoRjVhEQw3PWc3pfV4dQFekfedkw6J9onXmJCEj5NGa66dFbHU6FwiTS15SjLgcQHSOvL2RmcvfznEfGNQzjN4AI1-fv9po5HOLMY/s320/16-10-11+optima8.JPG" width="320px" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Car now sits low with reduced droop , thanks to the New shock towers.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>I tested the car now it finally it had a LOT of steering, becuase the bellcranks now work they way they should, and also because i grinded the back of the c hubs protrusion so that the knuckles can turn more. I just have to stab full throttle, when i want to turn let go then turn, the car will slow down by itslef becuase of the friction and grip of the front wheels. i can now point it to whiceever direction i want it to go to. but i havent tested it off road yet though.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8097951311529717025.post-61866769190349524902011-10-08T04:58:00.000-07:002011-10-08T04:58:49.272-07:00More modifications...Ok, the ZX-5 suspension was a dissapointment, not that it didnt work, becuase the width of the area going in the hingepins is short, it caused the hingepins to bend easily. So i decided to go back to the lazer ZX arms. Installed MPP ZX arms , which was a lucky find, i found 8 at hobby haven, each bag costs me RM5 only. Coupled to LA-59 front c hubs, and LA-28 rear hubs, i managed to laser-lise my Mid suspension. I like the lazer's arms better, becuase they place the outer hingepins inside the wheel, which makes rough track handling much better. I used the inner hole on the C hub to push out the front track, and used 3 racing 65.5 CVD. At the back, i am still waiting for LA245 CVD to arrive from japan. My A & L steering bellcrank arrived and cured the sloppy steering problem. I also managed to use back the Mids original battery holder system to hold my Lipo Saddle packs in. With Proline M3 soft tyres all around, my Mid will surely handle better.Alcyonhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/07155059674772092329noreply@blogger.com0